Preparation (prep) of your natural nails with an Electric Nail File

Step by Step

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  1. Push back the cuticles

  When your nails are completely clean and dry, you should gently push back your cuticles. Do this with our Cuticle Pusher. This makes the entire nail plate visible. By pushing the cuticle back, you gain access to a larger part of the nail plate, which makes it possible to apply product to a larger part of the nail. It is important that you hold the cuticle pusher parallel to the nail instead of pressing down on it, letting the cuticle pusher glide along the nail down beside the cuticle. The higher up on the cuticle pusher you hold it, the less pressure you place on the nail plate.

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  2. Remove the dead skin cells around the nail

  Now we get to the fun part – using our electric nail file. Even though our Electric Nail File can make a lot of the work easier, it is also important to start slowly and carefully. Take your time to learn how to use it. If you are new to the machine, you should start at level 1 and never hold the file still on the nail or apply pressure to the nail plate with the file. Take it slow in the beginning so you don’t risk damaging your beautiful nails.

  Now you might be asking yourself: Which bit should I use? It’s hard to say which bit is best, as it depends on your skills. When preparing your natural nail, it is important that you only use a Diamond Bit or a Sanding Band, and never a Ceramic Bit on your natural nail. Our Diamond Bits are the best for getting close to the cuticles and removing dead skin cells on the skin around the nails.

  When preparing your nails, the speed of the electric nail file should be set between 2–5 RPM (Rounds Per Minute). Better a little too slow than too fast. Start slow so you can learn.

  After you have pushed back your cuticles, we recommend using a Diamond Bit – Spear Medium, Fine to remove the excess cuticle and dead skin around the nail. Move your electric nail file around the edge of your nail in the same direction. This helps lift the cuticle slightly from the nail plate, making it easier to remove the dead skin from the cuticle.

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  3. Remove the excess cuticle

  When you have lifted the cuticle from the nail plate, you can use a cuticle clipper to remove the excess cuticle. You need to be careful when clipping the excess cuticle so that you only cut away the dry, dead skin. It is important to pay attention not to cut into the skin around the nail.

  So how do you spot whether the skin is dead? There are a few small things you can look for, such as whether the skin is hard and rough, if there are dry flakes, if the skin has a lighter color, or if there are cracks and splits in the skin. The rule of thumb, however, is that if you are in doubt about whether the skin is dead, do not clip it. It is better to leave a little too much than to cut into living skin. Not only does it hurt, but it also makes it more difficult to do your nails, because if it starts bleeding, the blood will get into your products, and you will therefore most often have to wait to do your nails until the bleeding has stopped.

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  4. Remove dead skin cells from the nail plate

  After removing the dead skin cells around the nail, you also need to remove all the dead skin cells lying on the nail plate at the cuticle edge.

  You can spot the dead skin cells on the nail plate if there are matte or chalky areas on the nail plate, or if you feel resistance when using the cuticle pusher. The reason it is important to remove the dead skin cells – also known as the invisible cuticle – is that over time they lift away from the nail plate. If you apply product on top of dead skin cells, your product will lift as the dead skin cells lift. So if you don’t remove the invisible cuticle, you will experience what is called lifting. This is when products lift from the nail plate, creating an air pocket between the products and the nail plate.

  By pushing back your cuticles and removing the dead skin cells, you extend the durability of your nails and increase the time before regrowth becomes visible.

  We recommend starting with a Diamond Bit – Cone-Shaped Medium to remove the invisible cuticle sitting at the base of the nail plate by the cuticle. Do this by running our Electric Nail File around the edge by the cuticle. After that, remove the dead skin sitting along the nail sides.

  For prep, all our Diamond Bits can be used. It is simply a matter of preference, which bits fit your needs best, and how experienced you are. Be careful when filing directly on the nail so you don’t cause nail damage.

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  5. Buff the nail surface

  Once you have removed the cuticle and the invisible cuticle, you should buff the nail. Here you can use a Sanding Band with 240 grit to matte the nail, or alternatively, you can use our buffer. You should avoid using too much force and putting too much pressure on the nail surface when filing. Instead, use a light hand and gently run the nail file over the nail plate. The goal is to make the nail surface matte so the product you apply later has something to adhere to. You can also file the shape of your natural nail at the same time if you wish.

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  6. Clean with Cleanser

  When you buff and file the nail, some nail dust will naturally appear on the surface. That is why you need to clean the nail with our Cleanser and a Lint-Free Pad. Soak your Lint-Free Pad in Cleanser and wipe it across the nail plate. It is important to thoroughly clean the nail by the cuticle. Since it can be difficult to reach all the way down to the cuticle with a Lint-Free Pad, you can advantageously use our Micro Brushes dipped in Cleanser, as they make it easier to clean close to the cuticle.

  It is crucial to remove all dust, dirt, and debris from the nails. Even the smallest speck of dust can stick to the products you apply and affect the appearance and durability of the product. So make sure the nails are completely clean. Once the nails have been cleaned with Cleanser, it is important not to touch them again, as this can cause oils or dirt to gather back on the nails.

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  7. Apply PH-Bond and Primer

  For the best result, finish the preparation by applying a thin layer of PH-Bond and Primer. It is important to let both products air dry for 60 seconds. You can also use PH-Bond and Primer separately, but to achieve the most durable result, it is best to use both. PH-Bond temporarily dehydrates the nail plate and removes excess oil, while Primer leaves a sticky layer that ensures the Base Coat adheres more easily to the natural nail.

  Once this is done, your nails are ready for product application!

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